How to choose the right dog food for small breeds

Walk down the pet food aisle of any supermarket and you’ll be hit with roughly four thousand options, half of which claim to be “the best” for your dog. Add in the online brands, raw feeding evangelists, home-cooking advocates, and that bloke at the park who swears his dog thrives on sardines and sweet potato, and choosing the right food for your small dog starts to feel like a university-level decision.

Small breeds have specific nutritional needs that differ from larger dogs, and getting the food right makes a genuine difference to their energy, coat quality, digestion, and long-term health. So let’s strip away the marketing noise and talk about what actually matters.

Why small breeds need different food

Pound for pound, small dogs burn more calories than large dogs. A 5kg Lhasa Apso has a metabolic rate roughly twice that of a 30kg Labrador on a per-kilogram basis. This means small breeds need calorie-dense food to meet their energy demands without having to eat enormous volumes. Their tiny stomachs can only hold so much, so every mouthful needs to count.

Small dogs are also more prone to hypoglycaemia (low blood sugar), particularly puppies and very small adults. Their limited glycogen stores deplete faster, which is why they often do better with smaller, more frequent meals rather than one or two large ones. If your small dog gets shaky, lethargic, or wobbly between meals, blood sugar could be the culprit. Talk to your vet if you see these signs.

Then there’s the dental factor. Small breeds are disproportionately affected by dental disease, and the size and texture of their food plays a role. Kibble designed for small mouths is easier to chew and can help with mechanical plaque removal, though it’s not a substitute for tooth brushing. Poppy, for instance, will eat anything that smells vaguely of chicken but turns her nose up at fish-based kibble like it has personally offended her. Every small dog has opinions about food, and they are usually loud.

What to look for on the label

The ingredient list on dog food packaging is ordered by weight, so the first few ingredients tell you the most about what’s actually in the food. You want to see a named animal protein as the first ingredient. “Chicken,” “lamb,” or “salmon” is good. “Meat and animal derivatives” is vague and tells you nothing about what your dog is eating. In the UK, pet food labelling is regulated by FEDIAF standards, so manufacturers must list ingredients accurately.

Look for a complete food rather than a complementary one. Complete foods contain everything your dog needs nutritionally. Complementary foods are designed to be fed alongside other food and don’t provide balanced nutrition on their own. This distinction is always printed on the packaging.

The guaranteed analysis panel shows the protein, fat, fibre, and ash percentages. For small breeds, aim for a minimum of 25% protein (on a dry matter basis) from quality animal sources. Fat content of 12-18% provides the calorie density small dogs need. Fibre should sit between 2-5% for healthy digestion.

Kibble, wet food, or raw?

Each format has its merits, and the best choice depends on your dog and your lifestyle.

Kibble is convenient, affordable, and stores easily. Small-breed-specific kibble has smaller pieces that are easier for little jaws to manage. Quality varies enormously though. A premium kibble with named proteins and minimal fillers is a world apart from a budget option packed with wheat, maize, and vague “derivatives.”

Wet food tends to be more palatable, which helps with fussy eaters (and small dogs are often spectacularly fussy). It has higher moisture content, which is good for hydration and dogs with kidney concerns. The downside is cost, shorter shelf life once opened, and some owners find it less convenient. It also doesn’t provide the same mild tooth-cleaning benefit that crunchy kibble does.

Raw feeding has a passionate following, and when done properly with balanced, commercially prepared raw meals, it can work well. The key phrase is “done properly.” An imbalanced raw diet can cause serious nutritional deficiencies. If you’re interested in raw, start with a reputable commercial raw brand rather than DIY, and discuss it with your vet. The British Veterinary Association advises caution around raw feeding due to bacterial contamination risks, so it’s worth understanding both sides.

Ingredients to avoid

Some ingredients are red flags regardless of the brand’s marketing budget. Artificial colours (like tartrazine and sunset yellow) serve no nutritional purpose and exist solely to make the food look appealing to humans. Your dog couldn’t care less what colour their dinner is.

BHA and BHT are artificial preservatives that some studies have linked to health concerns in animals. Many quality brands have moved to natural preservatives like mixed tocopherols (vitamin E) and rosemary extract instead. Added sugar has no place in dog food. It’s there to improve palatability of otherwise unappealing food and contributes to dental problems and weight gain.

Excessive fillers like wheat, maize, and soy bulk out food cheaply but offer limited nutritional value for dogs. Some dogs are also sensitive to these ingredients. A small amount of grain isn’t inherently bad (grain-free isn’t automatically better), but it shouldn’t be the primary ingredient.

How much to feed

Overfeeding is the most common feeding mistake with small breeds. Because they’re small, even a tiny amount of extra food adds up quickly. An extra tablespoon of kibble per day might seem insignificant, but for a 5kg dog, it’s the equivalent of a human eating an extra sandwich every day. Over weeks and months, that leads to weight gain, which puts strain on joints, organs, and overall health.

Use the feeding guide on your chosen food as a starting point, but adjust based on your dog’s body condition. You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs easily without pressing hard, and they should have a visible waist when viewed from above. If they’re looking a bit rounded, cut back slightly. If they’re looking ribby, add a touch more. Our guide on Lhasa Apso characteristics covers the breed’s build in more detail.

Treats count too. If you’re training with treats throughout the day, reduce the meal portion accordingly. Treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog’s daily calorie intake.

Feeding schedule for small breeds

Most adult small breeds do well with two meals per day, morning and evening. Some owners split it into three smaller meals, which can help dogs prone to blood sugar dips or those who seem hungry between meals. Puppies need three to four meals daily until around six months, then transition to two meals.

Consistency matters. Feed at roughly the same times each day, and give your dog 15 to 20 minutes to eat before removing the bowl. Free-feeding (leaving food out all day) is tempting for convenience, but it makes it impossible to monitor how much your dog is actually eating and can contribute to weight problems and fussy behaviour.

When to switch foods

If your dog is thriving on their current food, with a healthy coat, good energy, firm stools, and a stable weight, there’s no reason to change it. “The grass is always greener” applies to dog food too. Constantly switching brands can upset your dog’s digestion and create fussy eating habits.

Good reasons to switch include persistent digestive issues, poor coat quality despite adequate grooming, allergic symptoms, or a life stage change (puppy to adult, adult to senior). When you do switch, transition gradually over seven to ten days, mixing increasing amounts of the new food with decreasing amounts of the old. Sudden changes almost always result in digestive upset.

What does your small dog eat? Found a brand that works brilliantly? Share your recommendations in the comments!